In April 2008 we Joined The Land Cruiser Club - Southern Africa on what was advertised as an "Extreme Namib Trip". I posted an almost identical trip report on the "Trip Reports Forum" on www.landcruiserclub.co.za so if anyone has seen that report there is no reason to proceed further.
The pictures below are large thumbnails and if you click on them they should enlarge. To return to this page you will need to go to the previous screen (back arrow on the browser).
Because of the size I split the report into sections.
The people who came.
To begin thank you Theo for organising the Namib trip and to Salo who organised the Kalagadi part of the trip.
On my previous trip report people asked for names to be placed alongside the photographs and to be truthful I was not competent to do that and in spite of offers to assist which never materialised this was never completed. Therefore on this trip I decided to try and ensure that this was done successfully. Also I decided to take the pictures early on the trip while everyone was relatively clean shaven and still talking to each other. (Experience has taught me that by the end of a trip people sometimes loathe each other so much that they refuse to be photographed beside each other.) To avoid confusion and as the pictures would be considerably reduced I decided on portrait snaps of individuals or groups of people traveling together. It is also quite foreseeable that some people have no interest whatsoever in how I saw the trip and all they want to see is who was there. This will allow busy people and those not interested in our exploits to just look at the people who were there and ignore the rest.
The tour participants were:
Dion and Miems Booyens
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Anton, Denise and Koos Burger
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Bee de Klerk later joined by Brayn van der Merwe
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Brayn van der Merwe and Bee de Klerk
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Salo and Nikki de Swardt
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Anthony Hess and Tristan Hess
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Brad Hoffmann and Christian Rose later joined by Charlene Ruthven -----------------------------------------------------------------------
Charleen Ruthven and Brad Hoffmann
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Claude and Helen Human
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Christiaan Kotze and Stephan Grove
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Mariaan Crafford and Ronald Meyer
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Sue Roux and Theo Schmidt
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Bartho van Wyk later joined by Siggy and Sylvia Bishop
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Hardus Visagie, Francois Oosthuizen and Johan Malan
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Guided and fed in the dunes by:
Armand Basson
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Basil Smith
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Dekker Smit
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Kobus Brayshaw
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Niesie
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The rest follows:-
From home to Solitaire
30 March
We left around 7am on 30 March and headed for Vryburg where we were to meet some of the party for lunch. The trip was uneventful and the cosmos flowers were out and looked lovely alongside the road.
There was a deviation but we still arrived in Vryburg early and filled the vehicle with petrol. On time Christian and Brad arrived and Dion phoned to say he would be late but this did not matter as Salo was well behind and had promised kudu fillets for dinner. When Dion and Miems arrived they said they had already eaten so we set off for Winton Guest Farm. The details on the web from Olifantshoek are wrong but Salo kindly sent us the co-ordinates. These details were accurate and our trusty GPS's took us to the gate. Here we were delighted to see that we would not be pitching tents as there were rooms for each of us.
We heard Salo calling some way off on the radio and I made urgent food enquiries. The kudu fillets arrived and were gratefully consumed with lovely cream sauce and mushrooms and garlic bread.
31 March
The next morning we were treated to a lovely breakfast at the farmhouse.
Our hosts were Koos and Susan van Zyl and they went out of their way to make our stay pleasant and it was.
Then we set off north to Twee Rivieren via van Zylsrus and Askham..The countryside was very green. At van Zylsrus -Brad, Christian, Salo and Nikki remained to fill up while we and Dion and Miems headed for Askham. About an hour ;later Brad phoned to say they had met people at Van Zylsrus and that they had not left yet.
Brad told us that they had an excellent "visit" at the newly revamped Van Zylsrus Hotel - highly recommended. Even the local ambulance driver was in the pub to advise them on road conditions. He did not wish to "come and fetch them" from the Askham road.
Soon we heard Anthony from the Malopo Lodge and he said we should meet there. Soon after we arrived outside the lodge and they told us they were leaving. No problem - we set of for Twee Rivieren where we arrived ahead of the group.
At Twee Rivieren I tried to book for the Leeudril 4x4 trail but that section of the Nossob road was still closed due to flooding. That afternoon after setting up out tent we drove north and were lucky enough to come across a pride of lions including the male and female below.
That evening I noticed something which looked unusual in the background and it was a mole. I have never seen one like this before.
1 April
We headed for Mata Mata where Salo had managed to get a campsite for the whole group. The group split and our party took the dune roads. The park was very green and vastly different from when we were there in November.
We met an American couple Jim & Sheri O'Neal at Achterlonie Picnic Spot . They were traveling through Africa.
That night it rained and it was the first time we were able to see whether our pop-up tent was waterproof and it was.
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Jim and Sheri found us at Mata Mata in the evening - their starter motor seemed to have given up.
2 April
Early the next morning we push started Jim's vehicle. (This is mentioned because I was one of the pushers.) Look right and take note.
Soon after we went through the border and it was a pleasant crossing.
Again the group split and we headed north along some lovely sand roads.
Before we reached Mariental we heard the other group on the radio and they told us the Fish River was impassable, With my usual tongue in cheek I suggested we should go and see for ourselves, This resulted in frantic messages reaffirming the peril of my suggestion.
We bought wine and an extra large bottle of Amarula (Which were to vanish later - without being drunk or drank - just vanished due to my failure to lock the spare wheel in position during a later fiasco. This would have made the fridge secure.)
The Fish River was in flood and we went over a bridge to the Koha Guest House where the softies (people like me) managed to get a lovely room with a shower. There we also decided to have dinner with our hosts and it was a very pleasant meal. This is the proprietress Zareida who was most gracious and kind to us
.
3 April
We set off for Solitaire via Sossusvlei and where we had been told to arrive by 17:00 if we wanted to be fed. There was a lot of water and at one point while traveling north we came across a significant river.
The roads were wet and there was one river crossing where people were wading in the water making it look far more formidable than it was.
Sossusvlei was lovely and I got a shock when I discovered a large river flowing across the road.. It is difficult to imagine all this water just disappearing into the sand.
There we also met up with Jos Hartog and his wife Kathy who heard us chatting on the radio. This was exciting for me as I had never had contact with someone outside the group I was traveling in. We stopped and chatted with them for a few minutes.
When we reached the pan we noticed that it still contained some water. When Jos saw this picture he was surprised that there was so much less water than he had seen a short while before.
Sylvia climbed to the top of the dune and I decided half way would yield a very similar view.
That evening we arrived at Solitaire to find most of the rest of the group setting up camp.
We filled with petrol after asking is we could use a card and after filling the tank they then told us the card was not working. I politely explained that they had a problem then and they then found a manual solution.
Bartho supplied Pamplemoes and Christian supplied Honey Liqueur. The 4x4 conversations have never been so interesting. The depth of the other discussions was incredible and we solved all the world's problems. Wonderful company - excellent stories!
At sunset we all headed off to take pictures.
From Solitaire to the Kuiseb River
4 April
At around 9am we set off from Solitaire for the dunes after posing.
On the way we passed a pair of shoes hanging from a pole. (Some days later when we passed by again they were still there.)
Soon after turning off the main road we came across botterbooms which looked lovely in the green grass.
The dunes were greener than we had ever seen them before. Also the fairy circles were plain to see as we entered the dune area.
We decided to drive at the rear so I could take pictures and not hold anyone up.
The vehicle was behaving wonderfully and we were looking forward to the rest of the trip.
At one stage we passed through a cutting where there were very sharp rocks likely to damage sidewalls and I got out and waved my arms about while Sylvia missed the sharp bits. On this stage Bartho heard a big bang and feared the worst - it was his air conditioner pipe which had burst.
Lunch was served above the Kuiseb Canyon.
From the top of the canyon you could see the water below. We could not travel down the river bed as the river was flowing strongly.
On we drove through the dunes and suddenly we had a misfire - not too bad. Soon we arrived at a depression and we could not get out.
The vehicle just had no power and died as the accelerator was depressed.
Basil tried again and again and eventually we got out. Soon afterwards all seemed fine and Salo tried mine while I drove his - wife swapping in the dunes.
Armand suggested that we should camp near the river that night. When we arrived at the river's edge some of the group decided to have a swim. I was far too concerned to think of anything except the misfiring. Offers were made to try and take bits apart but if that did not work the position would be worse and we decided not to take the chance.
Basil and I took the vehicle for a test and we decided that the vehicle would not be able to complete the trip as higher dunes were to come and to try would be unfair to the others.
Armand got on the satellite phone and arranged for one of his vehicles to come from Windhoek to retrieve our vehicle and take it to Swakopmund for repairs. He also kindly offered us another vehicle but I declined this offer as I saw debtors prison looming.
Brad offered to take one of us provided we had a cooler box between "the one" and Charlene (if "the one" was me) and Salo kindly offered to take the remaining one of us. Bartho then said he could take both of us and that sounded wonderful. Before Bartho could change his mind we accepted his kind offer. We then sorted out the bare essentials and Claude offered his Lilo pump so we would not need to take ours.
That night there was lightning up river and the recovery team was due to arrive during the night where they would leave their vehicle on the other side of the river.
The river was wide, deep in places with some soft sand.
5 April
There was a lovely sunrise.
As soon as I woke up I rushed to examine the water level and the river had narrowed but altered course and now there was a significant bank on the other side and some deep patches with soft sand underneath.
Armand's team shoveled the opposite bank to reduce the angle of the sheer face which had been formed by the fast flowing deep wet cold muddy water. Some of the others came to watch as Basil started to take our vehicle across. Tow straps were attached to the Land Cruiser on the opposite bank and assisted by power from ours the vehicle was driven across. I was very glad that our vehicle had power as to tow a dead weight across would have been horrendous.
Ropes were laid out and the vehicle is in the water
In the deep water
and up the steep bank
and out
The dunes with Bartho
5 April Continued
We put on our best charming smiles and thumbed for a lift.
I then decided to walk back up the hill and take pictures.
The light was lovely and the scenery nice. Dion loaned me a hand held radio and Sylvia was relieved. Why I do not know as I hardly ever wander off.
After reaching the top of the hill I used the radio to confirm the plan was to leave that day. Eventually I saw vehicles traveling along the track below.
At last they began to ascend.
We snuggled in with Bartho and hoped he would not regret his decision to take us.
This is a picture of Bartho beside his supercharged vehicle showing some of the bits. This was taken just before the aforementioned wander.
His car performed marvelously and he is a master in the dunes. Dune driving is one of his joys in life and you could see he has had lots of experience.
There was the usual excitement of cars bellying out on the top of a dune and as usual strong men tried to pull them off without success. Sometimes the drivers appeared nonchalant with elbows protruding confidently.
And then a tire came off the rim. This necessitated mining activity and much complex manoeuvring.
After a lovely day we camped near Claude and enjoyed a small drink before bed. Bartho had rigged his vehicle so he could sleep in it and fortunately we did not have lots of luggage to move as most of it was part of our sleeping requirements.
6 April
We set off again and it was lovely to be in the warm dunes.
Bathing in the dunes can be a complex affair. However there is no need to sacrifice modesty and efficiency can be enhanced by leaving your clothes on. This method is very efficient as you can wash yourself and your clothes at the same time.
People used to the big cities tend to park close even when there is room.
We passed a fossilised dune
where we saw examples of the desert rose and some interesting sand formations.
Great sports and entertainment was provided by Dion and I am sure everyone was grateful for the diversion except those that wanted to do something more useful than just sit and wait.
What happened seemed to be as follows: Basil crackled over the top of the dune and Dion followed confidently..
Dion appreciates the view - and it is spectacular - difficult to capture on a camera.
Dion gets the message to stop. This is serious stuff. Very serious -
Basil has gone down into a significant hole (the choice of the word significant comes from our orienteering days when that implied big, noticeable, large) and he can not get out. Much determined reversing and charging forward as Basil tries to escape. Dion watches. Miems has left him and has joined the onlookers. That dot below Dion's car is Basil's blueprinted bakkie and it can not reach the lip of the hole.
Meanwhile a small crowd cheers at the efforts and shouts encouragement.- which unfortunately Basil has no chance of hearing as his engine is roaring and also he is far far too far away.
Another group is sure Basil is doomed. But they sunbathe anyway - no point in not enjoying a sunny day.
The spot dead centre is Basil and he still is not out. Meanwhile Dion contemplates how his diesel will be extricated. By now many of the spectators know exactly what should be done but in spite of their advice nobody listens. No wonder Basil can not get out. The drop off in front of the camera position is so steep that you can not see the bottom of the hole.
This group is resourceful. Anton drives his Hi-Lux bakkie to the edge of the upper lip and plans are made to winch Dion out in the meantime while Basil plays down under.
Many hands make light work and spectators become involved in the recovery of Dion.
In the meantime Basil eventually gets out - whew! The winching goes slowly - too slowly for some and after a partial recovery of Dion the decision is made to disconnect the ropes and let him drive into the hole. Unfortunately the wind was blowing strongly and at some stage of the proceedings I put my camera away to try and keep the sand out. By the time I get my camera out again Dion is in the hole.
Dion's vehicle is brought part way up the dune face and ropes are connected and subsequently snapped.
Great sports.
Armand has a go with the diff locks on and the vehicle sinks nicely into the sand while the pulling continues. I wish I had ice cream to sell at that stage as the onlookers had gathered in droves.
Easy peasy - all it took was two winches and voila out Dion's vehicle came. Not quite like a cork out of a bottle though I must say.
We looked at a restored hut used in days gone by and pondered over the recovered bits of metal and glass. The hut was originally imported from Germany in 1897 and erected on a fossilised dune at Conception Water. It was used at Swakopmund Cemetery as a morgue. In 1910 it was dismantled and shipped to Conception Water to be used by Customs Officials and Police Officers. In 1996 the hut was renovated by the Windhoek Underwater Club. For some reason I did not get a picture of this austere hut - never mind - just picture it as a bit better and squarer than this one.
The artifacts on shelves were taken in the aforementioned construction.
That night we camped near the sea in sight of the Edward Bolen. It was fresh and I was happy that we had brought warm clothes as well. Looking at the picture again brings back memories of camping by the sea.
7 April
The wreck of the Edward Bolen was examined and it was good to see that some animals were able to survive here. A jackal searched for morsels in the distance.
Sylvia and I posed together on the bow.
Further along the bach we came across another wreck.
Then we drove into the dunes where Bartho and Basil played nicely.
This is a shot of Bartho's car under power.
Naturally there were onlookers.
Basil's bakkie and Bartho's vehicle reached the top of this dune from the bottom of the picture up.
The top speck is Bartho's car and the bottom speck is dust on my camera sensor.
We then drove along the beach to Walvis Bay. We saw a jackal near the surf.
The group split. and Bartho took us to Swakopmund where we were able to obtain lodging. That night we were taken by the lodge owners to a nearby restaurant where we enjoyed a lovely dinner and they were kind enough to fetch us later.
The day after the dunes and thereafter
8 April
The lodge owners took us to the garage first thing in the morning and we were told that the fuel pump would hopefully arrive later that day.
We spent the day walking around and visited the snake park in town which was not wonderful value for money. But they had desert chameleons in the front garden.
The aquarium was pleasant if small.
Then we went to the museum which we thoroughly enjoyed. Sylvia had always wanted to see a pangolin but unfortunately this one was deceased.
Anton saw us walking around and they gave us a lift to the garage and the vehicle was ready. Well it went. The studs attaching the floor steps were not replaced - the petrol gauge did not work - there was a return fuel pipe not connected. The aforementioned Amarula and wine, together with the snatch strap had disappeared.
9 April
We left Swakopmund and headed south.
We visited the Tourism Offices and paid for a permit to travel in the Namib Naukluft Park. This was a good decision and R70 well spent.
Along the way we did the picture thing again. We stopped at a place called Tumas View where we walked around and we were glad that we did.
The picture shows Sylvia standing on high.
We had lunch at a grotto which we found and it was very pleasant in the shade.
There had been rain and the desert was in bloom.
The intention was to reach Ais Ais and I decided to stay at the guest house again in Mariental as otherwise we would be arriving far too late.
That evening we cooked our steak and enjoyed another night in the lodge.
10 April
A rusk and coffee were breakfast and then we filled with fuel and headed south.
On arrival we found three signs at Ais Ais - report to reception - there is an upgrade in progress and lastly one that said the resort will be open in July 2008. I had only requested to stay in Namibia for a month.
We traveled south and through the Kamgab River Canyon in the river bed which we remembered from previous visits. I was apprehensive as I did not know what the path ahead would be like and there were very few tracks in front of us.
Then it was planned to travel down the Orange somehow and we found Felix Unite. Here we met Carlos Peres. Carlos has been to charm school.
and he kindly said we could camp at his facility until the next four day trip left. Carlos has personality and charm and is one of the reasons I would recommend his river trips.
We pitched our tent under a lapa and it was good to be able to unpack and settle down.
11 April
We traveled around and looked at the Fish river where it enters the Orange and the road was washed away and the Fish River was flowing strongly. It had washed the bridge away and therefore the road was closed.
12 April
We got a map from Norotshama and did the Canyon 4x4 route. This was a lovely route and we saw lots of Quiver Trees in one part.
Sylvia also found a petrified log.
That night we had T-bone steaks at Felix Unite - lovely.
13 April
Today we stayed at the camp and prepared for our river adventure.
Jens Alderin and Rory McCreadie introduced themselves and informed us that they would be accompanying us down the river and assisting us.
Wow - we were served toasted sandwiches for lunch and we had a braai with lovely salads for dinner.
Sleeping under the stars was recommended and we decided to try this out but on our large blow up mattress. It was lovely looking at the stars and there was a light breeze. Later the breeze stopped and the mosquitoes arrived. A tent was coming along!
14 April (Day 1 on the river)
We were ready early and Sylvia suggested that we should swim in the river for practice. I practiced
The canoes were loaded with packed waterproof buckets containing our equipment for the coming trip. Also there was a cooler box filled with ice
Rory took my camera as he felt that maybe it might get wet if it was in our canoe. This was a good decision.
Our Canoe leaked. I baled. Sylvia paddled.
Sylvia also swam sometimes.
The scenery on the river is similar to that we have seen below Augrabies Falls. I foresee a problem in the future with the thorn trees which seem to be invading the areas alongside the river.
15 April (Day 2 on the river)
Before lunch time we went for a swim and I could not get back in the boat as the water was deep and I was fearful of tipping it over. I kicked while Sylvia paddled to the shore. The distance was far further than it looked.
Our canoe was replaced with another canoe. It did not leak. I stopped bailing. I now also paddled a bit.
Every meal was well prepared and tasty - Felix Unite excelled in this regard.
16 April (Day 3 on the river)
We arrived at a significant rapid and Rory said it was a good spot for pictures. The light was from the wrong side but there was no way to cross the river so I just snapped as best I could.
Jens came down with Sylvia while I snapped - thus saving me from embarrassment should the canoe tip or take the wrong course. They came down beautifully.
In the afternoon we reached a rocky part and we took the wrong line - I fell out the canoe in the rocks and told Sylvia to continue without me. Jens came to my rescue and I tipped his boat over and managed to land underneath it. Eventually I made it to the bottom and was reunited with Sylvia.
17 April (Day 4 on the river)
We paddled on to Norachama where we were picked up by a quaint bus. All the buckets and fridges are loaded on the roof of the bus.
After lunch we decided not to overstay our welcome and headed for Klein Pella via Vioolsdrif.
That evening we tried to reach the Orange river through a gorge but stopped and camped part way down as I sensed disaster on the rocks if we went further. Someone had been through and back before us but our vehicle was too wide and we were about to rip sidewalls.
The spot made a beautiful camp site and we had the tent up well before dark. Wine and dinner were consumed.
18 April
We awoke early and headed for Klein Pella again.
The rocks we had traveled down needed lockers to climb out of. This was serious stuff and had we not been experienced it is quite likely we would have had real problems getting out.
At Klein Pella we had lunch - lovely toasted sandwiches.
and then we left for Red Sands.
We arrived at Red Sands at dusk, moved into a chalet and enjoyed a lovely dinner in the restaurant that night.
19 April
After breakfast at Red Sands we set off for home and arrived early in the afternoon.
Conclusion
It was a lovely holiday and we enjoyed the variety of activities. Thank you to the people who made the trip so enjoyable.
Salo's arrangements before the Dune Trip were excellent. Winton, The Kalagadi camping and the Khoras Guest House at Mariental were all lovely.
We have always enjoyed the dunes. Being past my sell by date it is imperative that I take every advantage to enjoy a trip and this one was special. Armand it was good to see you again and meet the members of your team - and thank you for getting our vehicle out.
Thank you to the owners of Sea Wind Accommodation in Swakopmund for your kind assistance. 081-285-3163 or 081-253-4720
The canoe trip with Felix Unite was very good value for money. The food was well prepared and presented. Coffee in bed was just one of the luxuries. (http://www.felixunite.com)
Thank you Elize at Klein Pella for preparing a lovely lunch so quickly so we could be on our way. It is always lovely to see you.
Red Sands has always been a favourite place to stop at on the way home (082-801-4414)
Especially thank you to Bartho van Wyk - it was a joy to be with you and we appreciate your kindness.