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Botswana June 2009
Some friends of ours had asked whether we would like to accompany them on a trip to Khutse and up though the Central Kalahari to Deception Valley. We had been told that the trip north was very difficult because of the deep sand and thick bush. On reflection the sand was easy and the bush was fine and we would not hesitate to take this route again as it is more interesting than the tar road to Rakops and then the drive south to Motswere Gate. The only consideration is fuel - you need to be able to do a thousand kilometres and we had enough for around one thousand five hundred kilometres.
Thursday 11 June 2009
We loaded the 4x4 - with lots of things - and the likelihood that we would be able to sleep in the back as the vehicle had been designed looked remote. On the last minute I squeezed our tiny two man tent in just in case we needed a tent quickly.
and set off for Doornrivier just north of Zeerust. This is a lovely distance to cover from our home on the first day. To all those that travel from Johannesburg straight on to Khutse - I wish you happiness but that is not for me thank you.
Friday 12 June
After a very cold night we headed for the Wimpy at Zeerust where we had breakfast.
The border crossing was pleasant and uneventful.
On we drove to Khutse Lodge where we planned to spend the night. I had phoned and eventually managed to speak to someone but they never phoned back so we had no idea what problems we might encounter later.
On arrival at the lodge there was room for us - yippee!
Over 900 Pula per person for the night and 120 for breakfast. The decision not to stay there was made fairly quickly. Never again thank you will we even try to spend any time there.
On we drove to Khutse Gate where we were told that all the campsites were full and that we would have to camp in the bush free. This offer we took up and we set up a lovely camp before sunset.
This was the small tent we took along for short easy stop overs.
Saturday 13 June
Through the gate we went and on to Molose Camp which is near a permanent waterhole.
We immediately set up the Can Crusher for future use. During the trip it worked well and saved a lot of space and it was very convenient to crush the cold drink and food cans.
The sunset was lovely.
Sunday 14 June
The sunrise. Some days are lovely at sunrise and sunset.
Monday 15 June
Pale Chanting Goshawk
Us on the track.
On the track to the camp we saw a vehicle that had burned out some time before. This must be a terrible experience especially if you are alone.
We enjoyed a lovely meal in the daylight. I am not a lover of eating or cooking in the dark.
The sunset - after dinner.
Tuesday 16 June
We were fortunate to see a large female lion early in the morning with her cubs but the light was low and I only managed to get a few snaps of her - none of which were as sharp as I would have liked. She was very big.
The sun rising.
Lilac Breasted Roller.
It rained and rained and rained during the night. It rained hard.
We have a new Tentco with inside and outside windows. We used one at Khamkirri when there was also a big storm and not a drop of water came in.
With this knowledge I left the outside window flaps rolled up and when it started to rain I just zipped up the inside flaps. During the night Sylvia said she was getting wet. After a long while I examined the zips and declared them bone dry. A while later, with the torch on, I noticed a puddle on the lilo. The water was flowing nicely from the bottom of the zip line where it had dammed up beside the seam. Waterproofing is the next step. Much mopping and drying took place amidst a few grumbles.
Because of the wet we did not leave at the crack of dawn.
The drive north was far easier than I anticipated, having been told tales of extremely soft deep sand. Probably the recent rains helped but in my opinion the route is fine.
Wednesday 17 June
We arrived at Xade Gate just before the gate was due to close. Our allotted camp site was under a tree - and that was all there was. However we were told we could camp at the gate - where there were lovely clean flush toilets and hot showers. The tracks in this area on Tracks4Africa are a little out of date but overall very good.
Thursday 18 June
Me still wrapped up.
Outer fly sheet off - drying off.
The lovely ablution block at Xade Gate.
Pearl Spotted Owl at Xade.
Hornbill enjoying a mouse at Xade.
Black Backed Jackal.
Friday 19 June
We saw a number of different Vultures in the distance on the ground - White Headed, White Backed and Lapid Faced. The White Headed we believe is rare.
Sylvia beside an ant hill at Piper Pan
Warthogs at Piper Pan. This is the first time I have seen Warthogs in the Kalahari.
Korhaan - I love the way they cackle when they fly up when disturbed.
Giraffe looking at us at Piper Pan
Kudu at Piper Pan
Kudu.
Typical track.
Saturday 20 June
Male Lion which we found just as we were about to leave Piper Pan.
On our way to Deception Valley we came across another vehicle that had burned out.
Giraffe.
We set up camp and were settled by 16h00.
Gemsbok
Two baby Gemsbok
There were a few pairs of Crimson Breasted Shrikes but they move constantly in short bursts and it is very difficult to get a good picture of one.
There were a few Hornbills chattering around and it looked as if it would be easy to get a lovely shot of one. Well I battled.
Sunday 21 June
We transferred more fuel into the main tank and off we went exploring.
In the track we came across some pieces of some animal. Our friends who had driven along that track earlier had see nothing except a jackal in the area.
Sylvia carrying out a closer inspection of the "remains"
It appeared to be a stomach. There was grass inside.
More flesh pieces in the grass nearby.
A view of the track.
Sylvia looking to see if she could see any predators.
A lion camouflaged in the grass.
Two lions camouflaged.
Lion in the centre - just visible.
Red Hartebeest.
Monday 22 June
We exited the reserve via the Matswere Gate on a lovely sunny morning.
The road to Rakops was being dug up by earth moving machines and the single track looked like this.
We used two cameras and below are a few random pictures taken on the trip.
Springbok.
Giraffe.
Hare camouflaged.
Wildebeest - Gnu.
Pretty little bird.
Ground squirrel
Kudu looking.
Gemsbok herd.
Gemsbok looking - at a certain distance they tend to look away and flee.
Wildebeest.
Gemsbok - Oryx.
Ground Squirrel.
Pale Chanting Goshawk.
Wildebeest - Gnu.
This is a really lovely area well worth visiting. Thank you to all who came along. Every night we heard the lions roar.