Kunene - February 2013

Kunene Trip - February 2013

8700 kilometers

When the trip to the Kunene Mouth was first announced we thought that would be an interesting trip as it was a concession tour that had just been opened.

The RSG tour we decided to join would start from Opuwo in Northern Namibia. This would take at least two days to get there and we decided to have a little vacation beforehand. I dislike border crossings so an extra thousand kilometers is preferable to one crossing. Therefore we decided to not go through Botswana but to go via the Kalagadi Transfrontier Park and enter Namibia via Mata Mata.

Having heard of armed robberies at Kuruman we decided to make for Askham where we stayed at the Kalahari Sands guest house with Hannetjie and Pietie van der Westhuizen.

At Twee Rivieren we stayed in a lodge where they had air conditioning that was noisy but efficient. Mosquitoes were despatched with our Zapper. We drove the Leeudril 4x4 trail which had been closed on the last few occasions we visited the park. The trail was very dry but a pleasant drive. As we left the trail we saw a lion under a tree in the distance on the Ayob River Road. The air conditioner in the vehicle which had just been serviced/repaired/fiddled with/mucked about with or heaven knows what - worked but not that well. (This trivia is noted so you will understand the later rant.) The next night we stayed in a hut at Mata Mata where it was very hot. Cleanliness was next to godliness as I took three showers during the night to cool down. We should have stayed at Kalahari Tented Camp or otherwise pitched our little tent which would have been much cooler.

On leaving South Africa we headed for Mariental where we spent the night. Unfortunately the place where we stayed had declined and we decided that in future we would try and find somewhere else to stay.

The next stop was the Brandberge were we stayed two nights at The White Lady Lodge which was lovely. Next we drove via the Burnt Mountain to Epupa Falls where we camped - R800 per person as opposed to R80 was just too much for the mean. (At this stage we had no idea of the expenses that we would incur later on the tour.) Epupa Falls is always beautiful but it was very hot and we spent lots of time in the lovely pool at the camping site. As usual we took lots of pictures of the falls.

Our friend Francois Rossouw of Radio Sonder Grense (www.rsg4x4klub.co.za) led the trip with Marius van Zyl and Armand Basson and "Nessie" - Nestor and "Gabs" - Gabriel did the cooking and washing up. We met at the Campsite at Opuwo Lodge where the camping is lovely and the cost of staying in the lodge unbelievable.

After doing some last minute shopping we set off for the community campsite above van Zyl's Pass. We had stayed there before and this time it was absolutely dry as opposed to the wet very difficult road conditions we experienced last time.

The next day we set of for the pass where the road was much better than on the previous occasion and we noted that it changes every year.

The only really technical bit this time was a small section on the pass itself. I drove. Sylvia directed. She said I should go straight. She repeated this direction. I swore. I screamed make with the single hand clearly and do not wave the claws about or use the larynx to direct. Holy vrek! Anyway I reached the bottom like everyone else. Here I made an observation. I could not see any of the gauges when the wheels appeared to be straight. The steering wheel was misaligned by about ninety degrees and the alignment had been done a day or so before we left together with a full checkup which we always have done before embarking on a long trip. This was slightly disconcerting but I thought I would not hold up the convoy with such a triviality as no steering. We camped in a dry river bed and I mentioned to Francois on the radio that I seemed to have a steering problem. He looked and after wiggling the direction tool with the engine running pronounced that the steering bits were falling off. Further investigation by Francois revealed that one stud had broken, one had fallen out and the remaining two were loose. This was the left side. The studs and bolts on the right side were present but immoral (loose)too. By some chance I had a bolt and nut which fitted and much tightening took place. Hopeful opinions and thoughts were expressed that the bits would not fall off again but that this had to be checked regularly - as in every few hours. Francois diligently undertook this chore while I stood some distance away (if the steering did fall apart I would be able to assure Sylvia that it was not because of my incompetent tightening). This was an occasion where we were extremely grateful to be in a caring group and not alone.

The steering held and we enjoyed the drive in the Marenflus and Hartmans Valley before reaching the dunes. Dunes are great fun to drive on and I specially did not buy new tyres before this trip as I believe that driving at comma eight bar is not good for the sidewalls. I planned to get new tyres when we got back.

The Kunene Mouth was not as interesting as we recalled it on the Angolan side a few years ago but this was the aim of the tour - to reach the mouth. Turtles and crocodiles and a few birds were eeking out a living there. We did not swim - it was a cool cloudy day. Here water was drawn from the river to be used for showering.

I have attached a route map of where we travelled. To see the coastline was interesting and we drove up the river bed where the scenery was lovely. This is a trip that you need to experience yourself so I will not attempt a blow by blow resume of everywhere we went.

The trip ended at Mile 108 - One hundred and eight miles north of Swakopmund. Here we experienced insects for the first time on the trip. Up until there there had been none and unusually we had no bites to prove it. However the long drop toilets seemed to be a fly haven.

Here we said goodbye to the group and made some decisions. We were advised and would take the advice of avoiding gravel roads so as to try and preserve the two studs and a bolt. We also decided that we trusted no one in Johannesburg to fix the vehicle properly. Cape Town would be the destination where we would try and visit the famous JB's Auto Repairs. An extra thousand kilometers to get the vehicle fixed properly would be a pleasure.

I have not written much about the trip and confirm that we enjoyed it immensely and the pictures tell the story better than my words can describe.

Noises developed as we progressed south. The Sony Radio proved marvelous. Turn up the volume and the unpleasant disconcerting noises went away.

We were told by Armand that Gross Barmen was open. The sign when we turned off said it was closed so we headed for Mariental where we found Bastion Farmyard - run by Deon and Salome Schoeman - what a lovely place - the next time we pass that way we will certainly support them.

The next day we crossed the border and reached Kamieskroon where we stayed at the hotel where the room was reasonable and nice but the food expensive. From here we phoned JB's and Johann Meyer was out but would be in town when we eventually arrived.

After the breakfast we headed for Citrusdal where we had lunch with our dear friends Petrus and Gerrida Slabber. I had told Petrus that the vehicle was not right and he arranged a welcoming committee at the local Toyota Garage where everyone was standing by as we clanked and clunked in. After lunch with our friends we returned to the garage where they had prepared a quote. This was wonderful except they did not have the required parts or have any idea how long they would take to arrive. We left without a bill but left a small tip for their efforts.

Years ago we had stayed at Kaijaki Guest House in Yzerfontein and decided to try and spend the night there. It was as lovely as ever and the owners Rene and Meraai Bosch were as always wonderful hosts.

The next day we headed for JB's which showed on our GPS. Johann was there and after a brief inspection pronounced that the prop shaft had play and the exhaust brackets were broken etc etc and that we should return in two days as he was busy. Then we headed for another supplier where they moved the petrol inlet pipe that we were unable to get fixed in Johannesburg. The pipe was duly redesigned and moved - however when we filled the tank later we found that it leaked like hell. While the modifications to the inlet pipe were being made we noticed a tyre was leaking and thereafter a tyre and exhaust place was visited next where the tyre had a plug inserted and all the rubber exhaust pipe mountings were replaced.

R4700 later the propeller shaft was repaired the next day.

When we saw Johann he said that a member of the Land Cruiser Club would be happy to lend us his vehicle while ours was being repaired. Thank you very much Egbert le Roux. It was very convenient to have use of a vehicle immediately as this allowed the holiday to continue unabated.

About R24500 later Johann pronounced his bits done. Was I happy - yes very. Was it expensive - no - the vehicle appears to be fixed. Will I go back - I am seriously considering just adding two thousand kilometers onto every long serious trip and it will be worth taking it there.

During this time we imposed on friends Patrick and Patricia Hodgen - thank you - bad mistake to tell pensioners they are welcome anytime - they turn up later. Thank you also to James Howard for letting us impose on you too.

So, with a leaking petrol inlet pipe we set off for Jongensfontein for more imposition with Jan and Aletta Janse van Rensburg. We spent a lovely day and night with them and we told stories of our latest adventures to them and friends who had been on a previous trip with us. You might recall - I was one of the tourleaders - since then I have not been asked to lead any further tours.

Continuing on we imposed on Sally Thomson in Port Alfred. Here we spent two nights repeating the same stories we had told in Jongensfontein.

From there we thought we would go to Mountain Zebra National Park. However once we set off we decided to head for home as there was a tyre sale ending in two days so we had only one day to return.

Before Colesburg, in the middle of the hot day, the air conditioner failed. The gauges failed, the windows would not open.

I found an auto electrician in Colesburg and he found the blown fuse and we continued on without air conditioner but with re functioning gauges and windows. The air conditioner had not been right at the beginning of the trip but I had the tiger by the tail and we had to "kyk noord . . .". The rest of the expression (known only by my adult Afrikaans friends) became true.

On arrival home I visited the local Toyota garage and mentioned the falling off bits and hopeless climate control situation. It was confirmed that the air conditioner was probably still under guarantee as they remembered it had recently been played with. I was directed to visit the place up the road where my car had been sent. After the recent repair dissatisfaction I was a bit touchy and while standing in an almost empty room waiting for a phone call to end and being entertained in a standing position my mouth began to dry. Soon the gentleman appeared and looked up in his records and confirmed that he has seen this very vehicle a short while ago - like a day or so before we left on this trip. He said he thought he only replaced an idler bearing but there could be further costs.

Only people who know me can imagine what happened next. He asked the vehicle milage - not concentrating on what and when it had been repaired - which his records appeard to have reflected. The explosion of wrath descended upon his vacant and vacuous personage. I told him to get out of my way as there was a real an imminent danger of me running him over if he did not. He then said maybe there would be no charge. I said there would certainly be no charge from him as I was going to find someone else who could fix the &*^%$ air conditioner. The next step was back to the Toyota garage where I ranted at the service manager. He said he had never had problems from "these people before" but it "was hard to find good air conditioning repairers". Rarely am I speechless but it was probably better as by now I had fallen naturally into a highly sexual, judgemental and racist vernacular.

Moving on . . .

We had two brand new BFG Mud Terrain Tyres and I bought another four that same day. Two really needed replacement but I certainly did not want to be in the bundu somewhere and remember that I could have had new spare tyres. I took the two worn but good tyres home and subsequently gave them away.

The vehicle is now at this very moment (a week later) at another air conditioning place. I received a call a few days later from the unfortunate I had set upon and he said it might still be under guarantee. I explained that I had taken the vehicle somewhere else. This was not a long conversation as it had no future and would rapidly only have got very ugly.

GRRR to the Gauteng repairers.

On careful reflection I am not a particularly nice person. (This observation was added on re-reading this page and making some minor modifications.)

I am too old to spend all my energies worrying about repairs as I have trips to go on. This is wasting my valuable (little time left) time.

Tracks4Africa was lovely as usual especially in the area between The White Lady Lodge and the Burned Mountain.

One day we will end up in terrible indescribable trouble if the vehicle breaks down on the tracks/paths we do on our own.

When the wheel fell off and the recently replaced wheel bearings failed we were not in remote areas. It was just inconvenient not life threatening. This was described in more detail in previous trip blurbs.

The pictures below are also stored at https://picasaweb.google.com/SiggyBishop/KuneneFebruary2013?authkey=Gv1sRgCOz0-8im7N2uNg should you not wish to bother waiting for them to load and just peer at the smaller thumbnails.